May 25 2013 Latest news:
by Tim Lamden
Monday, July 23, 2012
Before my visit to Karpo, I’d seen talk of an establishment reminscent of a “Dutch youth hostel”.
23-27 Euston Road, NW1 2SB
Tube: King’s Cross St. Pancras
Tel: 020 7843 2221
Mains: From £12
Wine: From £16
Disabled access: Yes
Children welcome: Yes
I’ve struggled to assess that comparison, having never even stepped foot on Dutch soil, but I can vouch for the venue’s alternative appearance.
Yet what’s wrong with being different? Moreover, aside from Karpo’s physical interior, the food is great.
I started with what can only be described as upmarket KFC, a devilishly tasty serving of southern fried quail with celeriac remoulade.
This was followed by an uninspiringly alpha male decision to gorge on Karpo’s rib-eye next, with confit tomatoes and chips good enough to undo even the strictest of calorie counters.
And the dessert didn’t disappoint either.
With chocolate soft and fluffy enough to sleep on, accompanied by ice cream flavoured with mint fresh from the restaurant’s roof garden, Karpo’s souffle cake is a heavenly conclusion.
Its menu provides an impressive variety of choice, with several appetising fish dishes and fresh greens emerging from the open-front kitchen during my visit.
But it must be noted that no visit to Karpo would be complete without checking out its intriguing underground absinthe lair.
The downstairs bar prides itself as a specialist purveyor of the botanical potion, which, I’m told, stimulates appetite. So if you don’t have time for the full Karpo experience, stop for a cocktail at least.